Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Chic & Casual Patricia

So this is why I don't blog!  I'm just now getting around to putting up my entry for week 1.  

I started by taking new measurements.  I'm terrible about taking new measurements when I know they've increased.  Still I wanted to do this right, so new measurements and a new print out of the pattern.  I did some stash diving and found a print that had most of the colors from this spring's Panetone colors.  Perfect!  I, however,  didn't have enough for the full tunic so I decided to make the back in a matching color and to lower the back to do a hi-low hem.  Fun.

I started with the same sleeve adjustment to this one as I did to the one in the spring.  Basically I brought down the sleeve cap and re-drew the curve so I could sew the sleeve in without a pleat.

I also narrowed the sleeve as it went down since the straight sleeve still bells out on me.

Then I tackled the neckline, very willy-nilly.  I added an inch to the inside neckline of the front and the back.  I did smooth it out after.  

I also wanted to narrow the shoulders as I knew it would be to wide across.  I decided to do a dart on the back shoulder similar to an Ottobre pattern I'd just been sewing over the holidays.  I liked the way the back of that shirt sat on me.  

I redrew the entire back with the hi-low hem.  I used the Marco pattern for the curve.  

I also took in the front shoulder along the princess seam to match the new back shoulder.  No picture, it was a little trial and error as I had to keep taking it in to the bust point until it was smooth.  

These pictures are the basted version, I wanted to make sure everything fit nicely before I sewed it up.  I muslined the sleeve because I have larger biceps and needed to make sure the sleeve was going to fit before I cut the last of the fabric I had.  

I think it turned out almost perfect.  I love the look.  I am modeling with a turtleneck because its still too cold around here to wear it without but I like it better without.  I'm waiting until it warms up a little to wear it.  

Its still a little wider across the back than I'd like, so I'll correct that in the next version.  I also think it can come in under the bust on the princess seams as it stands out a little there.  Of course that might be the weight of this particular fabric.  Overall I think it worked out great.  

1 comment:

Rebecca DuVal said...

Looks great!! I think you're spot on with your instincts, too. Take in the back before you increase the seam allowance on the princess sleeves though - just in case that fixes the bulk in the front.

I so appreciate the time you take to show us your pattern alterations! It's really fun to watch a "master chef" in their "kitchen" :D

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